This article is part of: Kigali, Rwanda in THE LONG EXHALE
Rwanda has one non-negotiable constraint: gorilla permits in Volcanoes National Park are limited, expensive, and book months ahead. If gorillas are on your list, this is the start of your booking sequence. Everything else flows from that.
If gorillas aren't a priority, Rwanda is straightforward.
Seeing mountain gorillas in Volcanoes National Park is the primary reason people visit Rwanda. A gorilla permit costs $1,500 USD (Rwandan rate) or $1,500 per person (one-time fee, good for one trek). The permit covers a ranger, guide, and up to 8 hours with a gorilla family.
It's expensive. It's also one of the most transformative wildlife experiences on earth.
Alternatives if you skip gorillas:
Golden monkeys (same park, cheaper permit: $100)
Nyungwe Forest primates (chimpanzees, other species, south Rwanda)
Mountain climbing (Volcanoes National Park)
Just Kigali + nearby sites
Decision: Do you want gorillas? (This determines your booking timeline.)
How permits work:
Permits are managed by the Rwanda Development Board (RDB). There are 80 gorilla permits issued per day (divided among multiple families in the Volcanoes). They sell out, especially for peak seasons (June–August, December–January).
Booking methods:
Option A: Book through the RDB directly (Rwandatourism.com or email Volcanoes@rdb.rw)
Cost: $1,500
Lead time: 2–3 weeks response
Bureaucratic but direct
Option B: Book through a travel advisor or tour operator (easier)
Cost: $1,500 permit + $100–200 booking fee
Lead time: Advisor handles logistics
Less bureaucratic
Option C: Book through your hotel once you arrive (not recommended)
Permits might be unavailable
Prices sometimes marked up
Reality: Most travelers book 4–6 months ahead through an advisor or tour operator, pay $1,600–1,700 total (permit + fee), and call it done.
Permits are non-refundable. If trekking is rained out, you can reschedule to the next day, but your permit date is fixed.
Rwanda requires a visa for most nationalities.
e-visa: $50 USD, online (migration.gov.rw), 2–3 business days processing. Simplest option.
Visa on arrival: $50 USD, available at Kigali airport. Requires passport photo.
Recommended: Get e-visa before you go. It's $0 more expensive and guarantees entry without airport lines.
Kigali (Gregoire Kayibanda International Airport, KGL) is the main hub. Limited international flights mean booking early matters.
Common routes:
Brussels → Kigali: RwandAir, direct, 9 hours, $400–700
London → Kigali: RwandAir, direct, 10 hours, $500–800
Addis Ababa (Ethiopia) → Kigali: Ethiopian Airlines, 2 hours, $100–200
Kenya (Nairobi) → Kigali: Regional airlines, 2–3 hours, $150–250
Book 8–10 weeks ahead for best prices.
Most travelers do:
Option A: Kigali + Volcanoes (Gorillas) — 5–6 Days
Day 1: Arrive, rest in Kigali
Days 2–3: Kigali (memorials, coffee, art)
Days 4–5: Volcanoes National Park (gorilla trek, golden monkeys, hiking)
Day 6: Return to Kigali, depart
Option B: Kigali + Volcanoes + Nyungwe Forest — 7–8 Days
Days 1–3: Kigali
Days 4–5: Volcanoes (gorillas)
Days 6–8: Nyungwe Forest (chimpanzees, forest walks)
Option C: Kigali Only — 3–4 Days
Memorial sites, art, coffee culture, markets
Best if you're combining with other countries
Most travelers should do Option A (5–6 days total).
Kigali:
Budget: $25–35/night (small hotels, guesthouses)
Mid-range: $40–60/night (better hotels, decent service)
Splurge: $80–150/night (luxury properties, good restaurants)
Book in city centre (Kigali City Centre neighborhood) for walkability.
Volcanoes National Park:
Budget: $35–50/night (basic lodge)
Mid-range: $70–100/night (comfortable lodge with decent views)
Splurge: $150–250/night (luxury eco-lodges)
Most lodges are 45 minutes to 1.5 hours from the Volcanoes trailhead. Your permit includes guide and ranger, so the lodge mainly provides rest and meals.
Booking sites: Booking.com, Agoda, or direct through advisors/tour operators.
Getting to Volcanoes:
Drive from Kigali: 2–3 hours depending on which lodge
Arrange through your tour operator or hotel
Gorilla trek logistics:
Trek departs 7:00 AM from your lodge
You walk 2–8 hours through jungle to find a gorilla family
Ranger, guide, and porter accompany you
Permit and lodge are separate (permit = $1,500, lodge = $35–250/night)
What to pack for the trek:
Waterproof jacket and pants
Sturdy hiking boots
Thick socks
Long sleeves (protection from vegetation)
Insect repellent
Your lodge can provide packing details.
6 months out
Decide on gorillas. Book gorilla permit if yes.
10 weeks out
Book international flights to Kigali.
8 weeks out
Plan itinerary (Kigali + Volcanoes or multi-region).
6 weeks out
Book e-visa. Book Kigali accommodation.
5 weeks out
Book Volcanoes lodge. Confirm gorilla permit with advisor.
3 weeks out
Arrange Kigali → Volcanoes transport with hotel/operator.
1 week out
Confirm all bookings. Pack.
Currency:
Rwandan franc (1 USD ≈ 1,050 RWF)
Payment:
ATMs in Kigali; carry USD backup
Tipping:
Not required but appreciated ($2–5 guides, $1–2 service staff)
If you want gorillas, book the permit first. Everything else flows from the permit date. The permit date determines your flight dates, your Kigali dates, your Volcanoes dates.
If you're flexible and want to travel on short notice, gorillas might not be available. The trade-off between budget/flexibility and gorilla trekking is real.
If you can plan 4–6 months ahead and have $1,500–1,700 for permits, Rwanda will change you.
This article is part of:
Read Full Guide →Inspired?
Turn this into a personalized trip plan.