The train journey from Kandy to Ella is considered one of the most beautiful rail routes in the world. It winds through …
The train journey from Kandy to Ella is considered one of the most beautiful rail routes in the world. It winds through tea plantations, crosses mountains, passes waterfalls, and ends in the small town of Ella where the Nine Arch Bridge — a century-old colonial engineering feat — stands surrounded by green hills.
The journey takes 7 hours. You'll pass terraced tea gardens with workers picking leaves by hand. You'll see small villages, rural life, misty mountains. The train is slow, which is the point. You have time to look out the window, have conversations with locals (many Srilankans travel this route), eat from vendors at stops, and feel the rhythm of train travel in a way that fast transportation never allows.
Ella itself is a hill station that serves as a base for hiking, exploring tea plantations, and visiting the bridge at sunrise or sunset. A meal costs $2–4. A guesthouse costs $10–20. The hiking is excellent. The air is cooler than coastal Sri Lanka. The town is less touristy than Kandy but increasingly popular.
The whole experience — train, town, hiking, accommodation, food — costs $30–50 for a full day plus overnight, making it one of the cheapest scenic train journeys in the world.
Kandy to Ella train journey: Reserve a window seat (face direction of travel), bring snacks, settle in for 7 hours of scenery. The journey is the experience. Reserve seats in advance at the station or via apps. $2–5 depending on class.
Nine Arch Bridge visit: A century-old stone bridge spanning a valley. Visit at sunrise or sunset (golden light, no crowds). 45-minute walk from Ella town. Free. Allow 1.5–2 hours for the walk and time at the bridge.
Tea plantation visit: Walk through working tea gardens, watch tea picking, visit a tea factory, taste fresh brewed tea. Half-day tours, $15–25.
Little Adam's Peak hike: A 2-hour hike from Ella town to a viewpoint at 1,100 meters with views of the Ella Gap. Free. Start early morning to avoid crowds.
Budget:: Ella Youth Hostel — simple but clean, good social atmosphere. Dorms $8–12, privates $20–30.
Mid-Range:: Tea House Guesthouse — converted tea plantation manager's house, tea garden views. $40–60/night.
Splurge:: Nine Arches by Jetwing — contemporary design overlooking the bridge, excellent restaurant. $150–220/night.
Kottu roti: Chopped flatbread stir-fried with vegetables and sometimes meat. Street food, interactive (it's cooked on a griddle in front of you), $2–3.
Lamprais: Rice cooked in a meat broth, wrapped in a banana leaf, and baked. Portuguese-influenced, rich, $2–4.
Hoppers: Bowl-shaped pancakes made from rice flour, topped with a runny egg and curry. Breakfast staple. $1–2.
Tea: Fresh-brewed Sri Lankan tea, usually served with milk and sugar. The whole point of Ella. $0.50–1 at a café, free at guesthouses.
Curry and rice: A plate of rice with one or more curries — chicken, fish, vegetable. Vegetable-heavy, spiced, cheap. $2–3.
Getting there
Train departs Kandy (2 hours north of Colombo) in late morning, arrives Ella early evening
Daily budget
$30–50 (train tickets $2–5, accommodation $10–20, food $8–15)
Best time
December–March (dry season)
Book second or third-class train tickets (not first) — they're cheaper ($2–4 vs. $8–10), have open windows so you can see and hear better, and are full of locals. First-class can feel isolating. Bring your own snacks, though vendors board frequently at stations.
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