Jiufen, Taiwan

Spirited Away director Hayao Miyazaki drew inspiration from Jiufen's Old Street — the narrow lantern-lit alley with red wooden storefronts that tourists crowded into since the movie's 2001 release. The street is real, it's that ornate, and being there at sunset or after dark is genuinely magical.

But Jiufen is way more than the film location. It's a mountain village 30km northeast of Taipei with a quirky, bohemian energy. Tea houses dot the hillside (Taiwan is a major tea producer). Street food vendors sell stinky tofu, taro balls, and peanut crepes. You can spend a day here and have a weirdly complete experience that isn't about Spirited Away at all — the film just makes it easy to find.

The village isn't ruined by tourism (yet). It's genuinely busy and a bit chaotic, which somehow adds to the energy. Expect crowds, but crowds are part of the atmosphere.

Jiufen Old Street walk at golden hour: Walk the main lantern-lit alley from 4–7 PM (best light and crowds manageable). No entry fee. Eat street food as you go ($1–2 per item). Spend 2–3 hours here.

Tea house experience: Sit in a traditional tea house, order tea ($5–15), watch the village from windows. Many tea houses have sweeping views across the valley. 30 minutes to 2 hours depending on which you choose.

Mountain trail walks: Jiufen's surrounding hills have walking trails. Guides available through tea houses or hostels ($10–20 for 2 hours). Escape the crowded street easily.

Stinky tofu and street food tasting: A small item list (stinky tofu, fish cake, taro ball, peanut crepe, grass jelly drink) costs about $10–15 total. Best done in the late afternoon.

Budget:: Hostels and small guesthouses in Jiufen or nearby Shifen. $15–25/night. Jiufen House or similar.

Mid-Range:: Small boutique hotels or upgraded guesthouses. $35–60/night.

Splurge:: Tea house lodge with amenities. $80–150/night.

Taro balls (芋圓): Sweet taro and potato balls in syrup. Street food. $1.50–2.

Stinky tofu (臭豆腐): Fermented tofu, pungent but beloved. $3–5.

Fish cake and mushroom soup: Local stew, warming. $2–3.

Peanut crepe (花生捲): Thin crepe rolled with crushed peanuts and sugar. $1–2.

Tea eggs and tea: Buy a small pot of oolong or puerh ($5–10), sit in a tea house, eat hard-boiled eggs infused with tea flavor.